History & Current Condition:
I used to straighten my hair for almost 10 years and have done several relaxing treatments. I currently follow the Curly Girl Method and have been natural for over 3 years.
What I focus on:
Fine texture and high porosity hair need and love protein which is why I use a lot of protein in my routine to give my curls strength and structure. My hair loses moisture easily and can get pretty bad tangles from that. I focus on properly moisturizing my curls with lightweight products and sealing with an oil and gel so my curls hold up longer! As I have high density hair, I always section when applying conditioner or leave ins / creams.
What I avoid:
Moisture heavy, protein free products give me very soft, mushy and frizzy curls, meaning I get into moisture overload very easily. I don't like air-drying all the way as that gives me flatter hair. I also avoid styling with heavy creams and butters as my fine hair can't handle heaviness. I avoid perfectly defined curls, as I prefer more volume = some frizz.
My end goal:
More & more volume and elongated, a bit looser curls.
Step 1: Pre Poo
I detangle my hair pre shower to ensure less hair shedding. I always use a small amount of oil to protect my hair from breakage. I either detangle with my fingers or using the Superbrush. I would typically massage in a scalp oil as well and keep everything under a shower cap for 30 mins - 1 hour then proceed to washing. Apply a small amount so it can be washed off without needing to clarify.
Step 2A: Clarify
I clarify all my hair once a month but I exfoliate my scalp almost every 2 weeks to ensure my pores are not clogged. Remember, a healthy scalp = healthy hair.
Step 2B: Cleanse
Making sure my hair is fully saturated with warm water, I use a small amount of Shampoo (Cleanser) just on my scalp and I really focus on massaging it in for 5 minutes. Adding more shampoo, being aggressive while massaging, seeing a lot of lather or foam does not mean you washed your hair properly or that is it clean.
Step 2C: Co Wash
If I hit the gym and I need a quick wash without needing a full cleansing wash, I co wash! This adds a ton of moisture to my hair. I usually co wash once a week.
Step 3A: Condition
This is the most important step, properly conditioning your hair ensures you will have a successful wash day. Frizzy hair comes from dry hair, hair craving moisture. I apply a conditioner in small sections and on soaking wet hair and detangle after letting it sit for 3-5 minutes. Then I keep it in a shower cap for another 5 minutes before rinsing some of it off with cold water.
Step 3B: Deep Condition
I would follow the same steps above but would typically keep this on for 30 minutes before rinsing it out.
Step 4A: Moisturize
Curly hair is naturally dry and is more prone to frizz and losing moisture than other hair types. A leave in conditioner is a must to keep my curls nourished and looking healthy. I apply in sections to make sure every single hair strands gets product. I like raking the product in to have voluminous, natural looking curls.
Step 4B: Moisturize & Style
I typically style with a leave in (4A) and gel or a cream (4B) and gel. Creams are a little heavier than leave in's and provide a soft hold to style the curls.
Step 5: Seal In the moisture
As I have high porosity hair that loses moisture so easily, I need an oil to help keep it in. As I have fine hair, I need to use a lightweight oil to not weigh my hair down. High porosity hair is also naturally dull, an oily really helps add shine.
Step 6: Style
Gel is the secret to defined curls that last for days! I typically flip my hair side to side, glaze in a good amount of gel and then scrunch a few times. I don't do a lot of scrunching or pulsing as I prefer long looking curls.
Step 7: Dry
I always use a microfiber towel as it is much more gentle than a typical cotton towel. I scrunch the microfiber towel once on each section, then put my hair up in a Turban for 30 minutes, then I diffuse my hair until it is 90% dry. This whole process help dry my hair much faster.
Step 8: Protect
A silk pillowcase is the key to keeping my curls fresh and neat for the next day as silk does not absorb moisture from the hair; I usually sleep in a pineapple using a silk scrunchie or a junior puffcuff. If my curls are freshly washed, I’d put my hair up in a silk or satin bonnet for extra protection.